Usually restaurants in tourist areas are expensive and, at best, average. Time Out is an exception.  Across from Flinders Street Station, Melbourne’s heart, this Federation Square bistro type cafe attracts partying groups so it’s celebratory.  Ruth and I found it quite by accident, an exception to our rule–when we have lots of unfamiliar restaurant choices, we invariably pick the worst one.

The other Adelaide restaurant we loved is in its best attraction–Central Market.  Around since 1870, this aromatic cluster of mostly food shops is reportedly the largest undercover marketplace in the Southern Hemisphere. Best explored with a map so you don’t miss anything, Central Market is in Australia’s driest state, so most of what’s for sale comes from no more than an hour away.  This isn’t just a place to buy cheese, it’s a cultural phenomenon.  Check out adelaidecentralmarket.com.au. and start salivating.

There are many places to eat, especially Asian, outside and across the streets from Central.   Inside are 8, including unpretentious Lucias Pizza & Spaghetti Bar where you’re extremely lucky to get a table any time of the day.  There’s a reason why Lucia has been around since 1957.

In Launceston, Tasmania, we found two outstanding restaurants and one very good one–Hallams.  STILLwater ranks among the best, anywhere.  Its brochure states, “river cafe restaurant wine bar, elegant casual dining contemporary tasmanian cuisine“.  All true.

In Calabrisella on our last Tasmanian night, its owner, Lorenzo Macri, kept coming over to our table for compliments so we learned a lot about Calabria, his roots, and about his family.  After he became established, he brought his two brothers here and they also opened restaurants.  He was so proud of their success that we didn’t tell him that we had eaten in his brother’s place the night before and found it not nearly as good as Calabrisella.

The most interesting dining experience we had in the ACT, Australian Capital Territory, was outside Canberra in the gentle Brindabella Mountains–Scope Mount Stromlo, which had just reopened in an astronomical observatory that was in ruins after 2003 bushfires devastated the area.  Four telescopes, 8 staff houses, etc. were destroyed, and it has taken almost 10 years for this fine restaurant to rise from the ashes.

On our last night in Sydney, we ate at our favorite restaurant in Australia–Cafe Sydney–and had a   bonus.  This superfine dining spot is on the 5th floor of the old Customs House across the street from Circular Quay.  Since we had made the reservation a month before, we had a balcony table overlooking the harbor so our sadness was somewhat deflected by awe.   The 1st and 2nd floors of Customs House is a library.  As we exited the elevator, an event was in progress.  Gawking from the fringe, we soon realized we had stumbled into a preview of the upcoming Sydney Film Festival.

Life is good.

By the way, tipping is controversial in Australia.  Since waitpeople are reportedly well paid, leaving additional money often elicits growls from Aussies.  Some leave nothing at all unless service has been really exceptional. If, being an American, you feel you must leave a tip, up to 10% isn’t scowled at.

Hank

Often memorable restaurant experiences aren’t just about fine food.  We had a lot of  meals in Australia but 10 stood out like Swarovski crystals.

While in Sydney, Ruth and I decided to take the time and go the distance to a stunningly good restaurant, the original Doyle’s.  Having been there by accident only once before, we took the ferry from Circular Quay to Watson’s Bay at the mouth of Sydney harbor, a great treat in and of itself.  After a bit of a wait (reservations advised), we spent two delirious hours feasting on seafood while looking at Sydney’s magnificent skyline in the distance.   Doyle’s on the Beach, 126 years in business, is, according to Lonely Planet, “a quintessential Sydney experience.”   Yes, indeed.

Melbourne has a daunting number of outstanding restaurants but our 2 favorites had gone out of business, so we took the tram to St. Kilda’s Acland Street.  It has several pastry and candy shops among its eclectic store mix.  It was mid to late afternoon as we bought some chocolates for their, uh, antioxidant properties.  As we paid, I asked the in-their-20s male and female running the store if they could recommend a place to eat and they said in unison, “Rococo.”  Just down the street and across from Holy Sheet, Rococo was effortlessly gourmet, welcoming, and inexpensive–2nd best meal of trip.

On our last night in Melbourne before heading down the Great  Ocean Road, we walked up Lygon Street with John and Trish and  entered Tiamo as if that was planned.  It wasn’t.  The staff at their hotel had recommended Tiamo, and we had eaten there the last time we were in Melbourne and liked it.  Some coincidence, huh?  Lygon Street, within walking distance of central Melbourne, is locally popular but not exactly a tourist magnet.  Many of Lygon’s restaurants aren’t very good.  Many have outside tables with annoying hosts who try to get you to sit down as you stroll by.  In my experience, this practice almost guarantees indifferent food and drives me crazy.  Tiamo, not beautiful but serving great fare, is the orchid under the weeds.

We got very lucky in Adelaide.  Normally, folks who work in tourist information facilities can’t recommend restaurants.  I learned a long time ago never to go into one and ask for the best restaurant in town.  They can’t, and shouldn’t, tell you.  What works, however, is something like this, “We’re looking for an inexpensive bistro type cafe with great soups.  Can you recommend a few?”

The staff in the info kiosk on the Rundle Square pedestrian mall included a well-seasoned man and a woman who looked grandmotherly.  Both were friendly, informative, and mentoring a young woman who seemed to be in training.  I asked if they might recommend a couple of places to eat within walking distance. I mentioned sandwiches, pastas, and pizza.  When I said the last one, the girl’s face literally lit up.   I turned to see if Justin Bieber had just walked in.

Good Life at 170 Hutt Street was a bit of a walk but well worth it. Apparently a notable success, it creates organic, gourmet pizzas with unusual toppings.  Good Life has more business than it can handle so, unlike us, book ahead.

Hank